Gucci Cruise 2025: A London Love Affair
For one night only, the utilitarian, concrete basement of London’s Tate Modern museum was transformed into a lush green jungle — and it was the hottest fashion ticket in town. As the brainchild of creative director Sabato De Sarno, the show was not just a presentation of clothes but a theatrical production celebrating the seamless blend of tradition and contemporary flair, marking a pivotal chapter in the brand's storied legacy.
A Star-Studded Evening at the Tate Modern
The Gucci Cruise 2025 show was nothing short of a spectacle, attracting an array of celebrities and fashion enthusiasts. Among the notable guests were actors Paul Mescal and Andrew Scott, singers Dua Lipa and Solange Knowles, and a host of other stars. Salma Hayek and her husband, Francois-Henri Pinault, chair and CEO of Kering, Gucci’s parent company, were also in attendance. This event marked the debut cruise collection by Sabato De Sarno, Gucci’s new creative director, who has been making waves since his appointment last year.
An Ode to London
Gucci, typically known for its Milan shows, chose the iconic Tate Modern in London for this spectacular event. Models walked down a runway winding through a lush, green setup of ferns, overhanging plants, and mossy paths, creating a striking contrast with the grey, industrial backdrop of the museum. De Sarno’s collection effortlessly blended luxurious evening wear and floral embroidery with casual jackets and slouchy denim. Footwear was all about comfort, with Mary Jane shoes, ballet flats, and platform loafers paired with even the most glamorous gowns.
A Historical Connection
Gucci’s founder, Guccio Gucci, once worked as a bellhop at London’s Savoy Hotel over a century ago. This experience inspired him to open his first store in Florence in 1921. This historical link to London was subtly reflected in De Sarno’s collection, which featured checked jackets as a nod to British style and dresses adorned with shimmering bead fringes, referencing Scottish plaids.
The Clothes
De Sarno’s collection showcased a blend of his favorite codes and new propositions. The runway opened with relaxed jeans paired with the iconic Blondie bag and tan suede Horsebit ballet flats. The collection then transitioned to pastel chiffon pussy-bow blouses, accessorized with single strands of pearls, exuding an effortlessly cool, feminine vibe reminiscent of British icon Jane Birkin.
Models wore mixed wash denim pants beneath strictly tailored outerwear pieces, including martingale-belted cabans and double-breasted jackets in matte brown suede. Pussy bow blouses floated elegantly from their necklines, adding a touch of softness to the structured looks. Footwear included horse-bit ballerinas with gridded rubber soles and raised brothel creepers with branded metal segs.
Intricate Embellishments
Intricacy and ornamentation were prominent throughout the collection. Jeans swished with feathered halos of threaded hanging beads or dégradé beaded embroidery of chamomile flowers. These floral motifs became an all-over pattern on later looks, where the black-backed pattern on the outside was mirrored by an equally detailed yellow-backed organza lining.
High-collared patinated leather short coats were key pieces, playing protagonists in looks featuring three-way near-pastel color stories, complemented by skirts and coordinated handbag/shopping bag duets. The jeans and workwear popovers in poplin, along with oversized leather bombers, looked like promising candidates for a spring 2025 redux back in Milan next month.
A Sensory Finale
The show’s finale was a sensory delight, featuring the yearning violin of De Sarno’s signature version of Mina’s anthem “Ancora” mixed against Debbie Harry’s “Heart of Glass.” This musical choice emphasized the revived Blondie bag, which Harry herself was in the audience to see, and signaled an expansion of De Sarno’s initially rigorously technical universe.
De Sarno’s Vision for Gucci
Sabato De Sarno’s vision for Gucci goes beyond high-fashion fantasy or spectacular glamour. His designs are about dressing the era’s new “It” girls, providing a beautifully-made, well-executed collection of clothes and accessories for the dream of being effortlessly cool. De Sarno is creating his own identity within the brand, offering many variations of the Gucci Jackie and Blondie bags.
The overall set design was green, lush, and whimsical, perfectly capturing the essence of a cruise collection. The collection featured whites, off-whites, and opaque pieces, flowing and free for the summertime. De Sarno stayed true to Gucci’s heritage while presenting select pieces with glitz and glam, showcasing his attention to detail and sophisticated approach.
Gucci Cruise 2025: A Love Letter to London
Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Cruise 2025 collection was a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, paying homage to London’s cultural richness while staying rooted in Gucci’s luxurious heritage. From the lush green set design to the intricate detailing in the clothing, De Sarno demonstrated a refreshing, sophisticated take on the brand’s identity. This collection is a testament to his evolving vision for Gucci, one that embraces both the legacy of its founder and the contemporary desires of today’s fashion-forward audience.