Issey Miyake — the man who designed motion

Fashion’s Real Architects: Chapter 2

Image courtesy of Archive


I don’t think a lot of people really get Issey Miyake.

He wasn’t trying to be fashionable. He wasn’t out here making runway moments or chasing headlines.
He didn’t even like the word “fashion.” Too trendy. Too fleeting. Too shallow for what he was trying to do.

This man survived Hiroshima as a child and grew up to make some of the most forward-thinking, life-centric design systems we’ve ever seen.

Not collections.
Systems.
Clothing frameworks. Concepts. Blueprints for how bodies could move through space — and how fabric could follow.

When most designers start with a sketch, Miyake started with a question:
“What can this fabric do?”

He was obsessed with movement.
Not movement for drama. Not for the runway. But for life.
How clothes move when you walk fast. When you dance. When you travel. When you age.

He created clothes that didn’t need dry cleaning.
That folded into nothing.
That stretched, snapped back, and held their form — no matter what life threw at you.

The Systems Behind the Silence

Pleats Please?
That wasn’t a fashion line. That was a wearable thesis.
A code for living.

Pleated garments, heat-pressed after being sewn — not before.
They didn’t wrinkle. They didn’t age. They didn’t beg for attention.
They just worked. Beautifully.

Dancers wore them. Architects wore them. Thinkers. Travelers. People who moved with purpose.
No fuss, all function.
And still — stunning.

Then he dropped A-POC — “A Piece of Cloth.”

Literal tubes of programmable fabric that could become shirts, dresses, whatever you needed.
You cut it yourself. No waste. No seams.
It was the kind of thing the fashion world still hasn’t caught up to.

And this was 1997.
Let that sink in.

Miyake wasn’t trying to disrupt. He wasn’t trying to rebel.
He just didn’t see the point in doing things the way everyone else did.
Why follow tradition when you can build the future?

You Wanna Talk Influence?

Steve Jobs wore a Miyake-designed black turtleneck every damn day.
Not for branding.
Because it worked. Because it felt good. Because it was simple and smart.

Jobs didn’t do PR for it.
Miyake never posted about it.

That’s real legacy.
Not clout. Not noise.
Just presence.

What hits me about Miyake is that he never needed to scream.
He let the work speak.

He thought like a product developer.
Designed like an architect.
Moved like a dancer.

And everything he touched — moved with you.

He built a system, handed it off to his team, and dipped.
No performative exit. No farewell tour.
Just: “I made something that lasts. Now let it live without me.”

If Cristóbal Balenciaga was the blueprint…
Issey Miyake was the engineer who built the foundation for the future.

He didn’t make fashion.
He made freedom.

The Best Part?

Issey Miyake didn’t just leave behind a legacy.
He left a system so clean, so functional, so intentional — that it runs without him.

The brand today is proof that when you build something that serves people,
it never needs hype.
It just works.

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Rei Kawakubo — The Disruptor

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Demna.