Mens Fashion Week Summer 2025: Designer Highlights
The latest Mens Fashion Week brought an array of stunning collections from some of the world's most renowned designers. From reflective elegance to seaside charm, each collection offered a unique perspective on contemporary menswear. In this roundup, I'm highlighting my favorite looks from each house, showcasing the creativity and innovation that defined this season.
Fendi's Reflective Elegance: Spring/Summer 2025
Milan's Super Studio Maxi was the stage for Fendi's Spring/Summer 2025 show, where simplicity met deep reflection. Silvia Venturini Fendi's collection felt like a poetic nod to the brand's rich history, intertwined with a vision for the future. The rotating prisms on the runway mirrored the reflective theme, creating an enchanting light show that highlighted the elegant, utilitarian designs reminiscent of Fendi's iconic 1990 male silhouettes. Think sleek work uniforms, playful knitwear, and preppy charm all wrapped in a palette of misty blues, ivory, and that bold pop of green.
The pièce de résistance? The revamped Fendi crest, now featuring Karl Lagerfeld's Double-F logo, a nostalgic squirrel symbol, the classic Pequin stripe, and Janus, the Roman god of transitions. Accessories stole the spotlight with the new Baguette Double crossbody bag and the ever-charming Fendi cap in fresh new shades. This collection wasn't just about clothes; it was a love letter to Fendi's century-long journey, blending timeless elegance with modern flair. Fendi's celebration of its centennial is a vibrant testament to its legacy and innovation, leaving us excited for what's next.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Prada's Playful Illusions: Spring/Summer 2025
Prada's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear show was a masterclass in exploring the blurred lines between reality and illusion. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons took us on a journey through the contemporary landscape of AI, filters, and the culture of imitation, crafting a collection that was as intellectually stimulating as it was visually captivating. The models emerged from a fairytale-like hut perched on stilts, transforming simple outfits into complex illusions with each step. Cardigans fused with shirts, 3D-printed belts, and twisted, wire-framed collars challenged our perceptions, making us second-guess the authenticity of what we were seeing.
The collection cleverly juxtaposed the fake with the real. The iconic Prada triangle became a no-logo cut-out, revealing layers underneath and sometimes even the skin beneath, grounding the show in a tangible reality amidst the artifice. The palette, inspired by mid-century Expressionist painter Bernard Buffet, burst with vibrant hues on outerwear and knitwear, creating a sense of spontaneous joy and optimism. This playful subversion extended to accessories, with mirrored sports shades reflecting idyllic landscapes and trompe l'oeil details on trousers.
Prada's show was more than a spectacle; it was a dialogue with our digitally saturated world. Miuccia and Raf's emphasis on youthful spontaneity and the joy of unfiltered creativity resonated through the collection. From oversized outerwear to gender-fluid silhouettes, the garments celebrated a carefree spirit, echoing memories and fantasies of youth. Prada's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear was a delightful dance between reality and illusion, reminding us of the beauty in both the genuine and the artificial.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Gucci's Seaside Symphony: Spring/Summer 2025
Sabato De Sarno brought a refreshing wave of seaside charm to Milan with Gucci's Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Set against the backdrop of the Triennale Milano, De Sarno's designs were a vibrant ode to la dolce vita, seamlessly blending the joy of sunny summer days by the sea with the sophistication of city life. The collection opened with a striking green leather trench coat paired with sleek black shorts and a knit polo, setting the tone for a show that celebrated transitional wardrobes and effortless style.
De Sarno's passion for art and his keen eye for detail were evident throughout the collection. The surfwear theme, inspired by William Finnegan's memoir "Barbarian Days," infused the pieces with a sense of freedom and adventure. From neoprene surf slippers with Gucci's iconic interlocking-G mesh to leather jackets in sorbet hues, the collection was a masterful blend of elegance and playfulness. The prints were a standout, featuring vibrant motifs of palms, dolphins, and hibiscus leaves, adding a playful twist to camp-collar shirts and chore jackets.
Accessories echoed the surf-inspired theme with spongy sunglass straps, fluoro-patent crossbody bags, and bamboo-shaped jewelry. The modular clusters of bags connected by gleaming hardware and Gucci surfer charms were both practical and stylish. Footwear ranged from almond-toe horsebit boots to neoprene slippers, highlighting De Sarno's talent for blending form and function.
Gucci's Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a testament to De Sarno's ability to elevate the brand's image while staying true to its heritage. His playful approach to color and design brought a palpable summer vibe to the runway, leaving a lasting impression on guests. As the models paraded outside for all to see, it was clear that De Sarno's vision for Gucci is one of accessibility, creativity, and timeless elegance. This collection was not just a display of fashion, but a celebration of freedom, art, and the joy of living.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Louis Vuitton's Global Symphony: Spring/Summer 2025
Pharrell Williams once again captivated the fashion world with his Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 collection, transforming the UNESCO headquarters in Paris into a grand stage for his latest sartorial spectacle. With a theme celebrating human diversity, Pharrell's show was a vibrant homage to global unity and excellence. Under the flags of all nations, the collection unfolded in a spectrum of skin tones, paired with matching monochrome ensembles, creating a visual journey from the darkest black to the lightest white.
Pharrell's signature dandy aesthetic was infused with Louis Vuitton's archetypal codes of travel, presenting a lineup that ranged from diplomats in strict formalwear to pilots in cropped blazers and flight jackets. The collection's standout pieces included the milky silk topcoats, delicately monogrammed velvet sweatsuits, and the striking pixelated reptilian print dubbed "snake-o-flage." Accessories played a crucial role, with modular bags, bamboo-shaped jewelry, and Pharrell's signature soft, pliable luggage pieces.
The show's production was nothing short of spectacular. A full orchestra in custom LV suits, the Voices of Fire gospel choir in Damier check frocks, and a cinematic soundtrack composed by Pharrell himself set the stage for a truly memorable event. The collection's meticulous details, from jewels and micro monograms to custom hardware, reflected Pharrell's commitment to luxury and craftsmanship. The final 15 looks, a celebration of global culture, included collaborations with Paris-based collective Air Afrique, bringing a powerful message of unity and appreciation for the beauty of the human race.
Pharrell's Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a masterclass in blending opulence with a universal message. His ability to elevate menswear to new heights while celebrating global diversity and human connection made this show a standout in the fashion calendar. As the sun set on the UNESCO headquarters, it was clear that Pharrell's vision for Louis Vuitton continues to inspire and redefine the boundaries of fashion.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Amiri's Jazz-Inspired Cool: Spring/Summer 2025
Mike Amiri brought a sunny slice of California cool to Paris with his Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Set in the picturesque Jardin des Plantes, the show was a perfect blend of performance and style, with British jazzman Yussef Dayes providing the live soundtrack. The atmosphere was electric, with stars like Christian Nodal, Maluma, French Montana, and Kyle Kuzma soaking in the laid-back vibes.
Amiri's collection channeled midcentury jazz sophistication into contemporary fashion. The standout pieces included big bandleader jackets with wide shoulders and long skirts, paired with skinny-hipped bootcut pants. Crystal detailing and embroidered florals added a touch of glamour, while smart two-tone loafers and pastel accents on knits and outerwear contrasted beautifully with monochrome and camel tones. Amiri's signature drum bags and embroidered satin jackets made a reappearance, solidifying his aesthetic of blending nostalgia with modern flair.
The pastel yellow runway bathed in natural light perfectly complemented the collection's sunshine and swagger. Amiri's theatrical touches, like rhinestone embroidery and dégradé crystal accents, added a Vegas glam reminiscent of the Rat Pack era. The pale gold shawl-collared suit was a showstopper, channeling a modern-day Elvis. This collection epitomized Amiri's unique brand of laid-back California glam with a rock and roll edge, a vision that resonated deeply with the fashion-forward audience and industry giants like Renzo Rosso.
Amiri's Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a testament to his ability to create emotion through fashion. His designs, characterized by sun-bleached pastels, lush textures, and lavish embellishments, continue to carve out a distinct niche in the fashion world. As Amiri took his final bow, it was clear that his bold gamble on an outdoor show and his commitment to his unique vision had paid off spectacularly. This season's collection wasn't just about clothes; it was about capturing the essence of a dreamy, laid-back California summer, reimagined for the modern man.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Dior's Artistic Elegance: Spring/Summer 2025
Kim Jones's 60th show for Dior was nothing short of a masterpiece, blending impeccable craftsmanship with artistic flair. Held during Paris Fashion Week, the Dior Men's Spring/Summer 2025 collection featured giant cat sculptures inspired by the work of South African ceramicist Hylton Nel, an old friend of Jones. This collaboration infused the collection with a unique charm, as Nel's whimsical animal designs appeared on studded outlines, badges, knitwear, and even punchy socks.
Jones's collection showcased his signature modern tailoring, using luxurious fabrics like two-tone tonic to create sculptural silhouettes. Workwear pieces, such as waisted work jackets and rivet-pocketed chore jackets, were given a sleek, lustrous finish, contrasting with their typically rugged origins. The collection also paid homage to Dior's womenswear heritage, with pleated pants and an unproduced coat design by Yves Saint Laurent. Each piece was a testament to Dior's dedication to craft, exemplified by the Nel floral jacket that took 600 hours of hand-beaded embroidery.
The collection also introduced a bird motif, inspired by Nel's stylized ceramic figures. This avian theme appeared on collars, buttons, shoes, and sweaters, adding a playful yet sophisticated touch. The bucket hat, adorned with small ceramic pieces, was a standout summer accessory. Jones's ability to blend the history of Dior with his unique vision resulted in a collection that was both timeless and innovative.
The show's celebrity-studded front row, including Maluma, Demi Moore, Casey Affleck, and Robert Pattinson, added to the glamour. With this collection, Kim Jones has solidified his place as a visionary in the fashion world, continuing to push the boundaries while honoring the legacy of Dior. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a beautiful celebration of craftsmanship, artistry, and the enduring elegance of Dior.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Loewe's Precision and Artistry: Spring/Summer 2025
Jonathan Anderson continues to redefine precision and craftsmanship with Loewe's Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Set amidst a display of works by admired creatives, including a copy of Susan Sontag’s "Against Interpretation" and macro sculptures by Paul Thek, the show emphasized a blend of artistic influences and meticulous design. Anderson's focus on "razor looks" was evident in the slim silhouettes and French C-suite tailoring, featuring suits crafted from a unique woven silk mohair fabric with a spongey finish, epitomizing the seamless blend of effortlessness and complexity.
The collection stretched the boundaries of scale and setting, transforming house labels into smocked shirts and introducing garments with intricate details like vests fronted with watch strap links or mother of pearl sections. Shorts and t-shirts, painted to resemble cable knit, shimmered with a ceramic-like finish, while cropped shirts and pants linked with a spiraled double circle belt added a touch of architectural elegance. The play of textures continued with pieces like a long brown coat that transitioned from nappa leather to ostrich, and double-faced coats that seemed to defy gravity with their frozen drape.
Feathers, both gold and monochrome, adorned headbands, adding a dramatic flair that contrasted with the collection's minimalist undertones. These elements created a forced perspective, constantly challenging the viewer’s perception and adding depth to the presentation. The intellectual and restrained approach was further highlighted by pieces like checkered shorts and polo shirts with a 1950s picnic vibe, and a biker jacket with a cocktail dress neckline, showcasing Anderson's knack for blending contrasts.
The collection's starting point, a black-and-white photo of a woman’s pump, set the tone for sharp, focused designs. Lightweight silk mohair suits and practical, high-quality materials underscored Anderson’s commitment to blending functionality with high fashion. Subtle subversions, like Oxford bag trousers and roomy khaki coats reminiscent of English schoolboys and military uniforms, added a rebellious edge to the refined collection.
In summary, Loewe's Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection is a departure from the brand's usual showmanship, offering a hypnotic and thought-provoking experience. Anderson’s meticulous attention to detail and innovative use of materials deliver a collection that is both introspective and groundbreaking, likely to have a lasting impact on menswear trends.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Hermès' Coastal Elegance: Spring/Summer 2025
Véronique Nichanian's vision for Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 was a serene seaside escape, where luxury meets the relaxed spirit of beachwear. Models strolled in strappy leather sandals and wide-leg pants cropped above the ankles, sporting zip-front sleeveless leather jackets that showcased their biceps. The quintessential Hermès touch was evident in every piece, elevating beach clothes with the finest materials without losing their effortless charm.
Nichanian's mastery of leather was on full display, with supple button-downs and matching neckerchiefs in soft pastels like pale lavender. Shirts were buttoned only up to the midriff, tank tops featured perfectly scooped necklines, and high-water pants offered a tender reveal of the ankles. Tailored jackets received a playful twist with naïve floral prints and manipulated lapels, while sheer jackets and voile shirts with unfinished seams added a touch of breezy sensuality.
The collection’s color palette was a dreamy spectrum of seaside hues. Powdery lilac, sandy tones, and baby pinks were prominent, with navy, grey, camel, and chocolate tones adding depth to ribbed knits. Tailored pieces, like jackets with patch pockets and lightweight blazers with sporty button closures, provided sophistication without compromising on the relaxed beachy vibe.
Prints and embroideries brought the natural world to life, with white wildflowers adorning grey jackets, horse motifs decorating silky tops, and playful pencil sketches of horses appearing on T-shirts and lambskin sweatshirts. Accessories like braided, striped D-ring belts, navy dockers' caps, and stacked silver bracelets added a vibrant and luxurious touch.
Hermès' Spring/Summer 2025 collection encapsulated lightness, peace, and softness, offering a perfect blend of sweet pastels and breezy silhouettes. Nichanian's seaside-inspired designs were a refreshing escape, embodying the laid-back luxury that defines the Hermès man.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway