Ashlyn

Ashlyn Fall 2025 is precision meets poetry—sharp tailoring with a quiet, confident power. Ashlynn Park understands the modern woman who moves with intention, who needs a wardrobe that works as hard as she does. The peplums are a flex, not a gimmick. The architectural cuts bring edge without sacrificing ease. Her signature ‘puzzle’ technique—where pieces feel like they’re locking into place—proves that minimalism, when done right, is anything but boring. It’s detail-driven, sharp, and distinctly wearable for the woman who actually has somewhere to be.

Then there’s the color story. That deep persimmon orange? Bold but refined. The neutrals balance it out, keeping the collection grounded and dynamic. Park isn’t chasing trends—she’s refining them. Strong tailoring isn’t just surviving, it’s leading. And when it’s executed at this level, it’s undeniable.

Calvin Klein

Calvin Klein’s comeback to the NYFW runway was clean, polished, and totally wearable—and Kendall Jenner leading the show while Bad Bunny watched from the front row? Iconic. But the collection itself? I liked it, didn’t love it. I had high expectations, and while Veronica Leoni played into that quiet luxury, sharp tailoring, and effortless minimalism lane, it felt too safe. In a world where The Row, Khaite, and Toteme already own this space, Calvin Klein didn’t quite hit the mark in the way I hoped.

That said, it’s a solid start. The collection stayed true to the brand’s DNA—refined, easy, no-fuss—but it’s missing that high-end Calvin Klein edge. The slinky gowns, the sex appeal, the runway moments that made you stop and stare. I’m hoping this is just the warm-up, because if Leoni can channel that old-school Calvin Klein magic into her next collection, then we’ll really be talking.

Khaite

Khaite's Fall 2025 collection is exactly what you'd expect from Catherine Holstein: edgy, dark, and unapologetically cool. The runway was a parade of slick leather skirts, bombers, and high-shine trenches, all in a palette dominated by black, grey, and that signature oxblood hue. Chunky knits and leopard prints added just the right amount of louche sophistication, keeping the vibe effortlessly chic.

But here's the thing: while the collection was undeniably Khaite—sharp cuts, luxurious fabrics, and that downtown allure—it didn't exactly break new ground. Holstein knows her brand's DNA and sticks to it, delivering pieces that are wearable and covetable. However, there's a sense of predictability creeping in. The designs are impeccable, but they don't surprise or challenge the status quo. In a fashion landscape that thrives on evolution, Khaite's steadfast adherence to its established aesthetic risks feeling static. It's a double-edged sword: consistency is key, but so is innovation. As much as I love Khaite's leather jackets and skirts, I'm craving a bit more risk-taking in future collections.

Coach

Coach Fall 2025 is just straight-up fun. Stuart Vevers understands the assignment every season—nostalgia, but make it fresh. This time, he brought back the classics with a Gen Z remix, and it worked. The Empire Carryall 34 and Empire 21 bags? Already selling out. The vintage silhouettes feel like a nod to the past, but the way they’ve been reinterpreted? That’s where the magic is. Coach isn’t just throwing old designs back into the mix—they’re evolving them, keeping that balance between heritage and heat.

And let’s be real—Coach is owning the wearable, playful, everyday luxury space. The clothes had that effortless, cool-girl energy that doesn’t try too hard, and the brand’s (Re)Loved program just reinforces why Gen Z keeps buying in. Sustainability, upcycling, making old things feel new again—it’s all part of the DNA now. This collection wasn’t just about nostalgia, it was about proving that Coach isn’t just having a moment—it’s staying in one.

Tory Burch

Finally—a Tory Burch season that isn’t boring. Fall 2025 took a sharp turn from her usual polished, predictable aesthetic and leaned into something way more interesting. Showing at the Museum of Modern Art (a first for an American designer) set the tone—this wasn’t just another collection of safe, sellable pieces. The exaggerated shapes, unexpected proportions, and those wild “handbag jackets” packed with pockets? A serious departure from the usual Tory formula. Even the track pants got a rework, proving she’s finally stepping out of her comfort zone.

Tory’s been shifting her brand identity for a while now, but this felt like a real evolution. Less "ladies who lunch," more conceptual, fashion-forward Americana. It still had that clean, wearable foundation, but there was edge, intrigue, and actual design risks. Whether this is a one-off experiment or the start of a new era, it’s a move in the right direction. And for once, I’m excited to see what’s next.

Michael Kors

Michael Kors Fall 2025 was fine—wearable, polished, and easy to digest, but nothing that really stopped me in my tracks. The oversized coats, tailored blazers, and flowing silhouettes were classic Kors—a formula that works, but one that isn’t exactly pushing boundaries. The muted palette made it feel cohesive, but also a little too safe. Sure, the bikini bra tops under blazers added a slight edge, but overall, this collection felt like a continuation rather than an evolution.

With the slowdown in ultra-high-end luxury, this should be the golden opportunity for American designers to dominate their markets—to stop the show, set the tone, and take up space. Kors knows how to sell a lifestyle, but this is the moment to go harder, to elevate, to really define what American luxury looks like right now. The foundation is there, but if he wants to own this market shift, he needs to step it up.

Thom Browne

Thom. Fucking. Browne. If there was one show this entire fashion month that left no crumbs, it was this one. The Fall 2025 collection was pure theater, from the surreal aviary set covered in 2,000 origami birds to the razor-sharp tailoring that just hits different. Browne’s signature suits were reimagined with intricate bird motifs, collegiate plaids, and exaggerated proportions that somehow felt both whimsical and meticulously precise. The jackets? Sculpted to perfection. The pants? Immaculately cut. Every single look commanded attention without losing that heritage-meets-avant-garde balance that makes Browne untouchable.

And the accessories? Insane. The Swarovski-adorned Hector bag, platform brogues, and sheer argyle-patterned tights layered over shoes were just more proof that Browne knows exactly how to merge fantasy with craftsmanship.This show didn’t just show up—it owned the space. In a season where a lot of designers played it safe, Browne reminded everyone why he's in a league of his own. If this is what tailoring in 2025 looks like, consider me sold.

All images courtesy of Vogue Runway

NYFW Fall 2025: A Season of Play-It-Safe or Power Plays?