Fashion Industry Faces Urgent Call to Decarbonize
The Alarming Reality of Fashion's Carbon Footprint
Rising temperatures aren't just about a few degrees here and there - it’s like pulling a loose thread on a sweater. What we all stand to lose is nothing less than all we love and all we are. If the planet heats up by more than 2.0°C, we could be heading for a ‘hothouse state’ with cascading crises that will hit the most vulnerable the hardest. The fashion industry alone is set to blow past the 1.5°C limit by 50%, doubling emissions instead of cutting them in half like the science tells us we need to.
To make real progress, the industry needs to focus on transitioning the supply chain from coal and fossil fuels to renewable energy, producing fewer clothes, minimizing air freight, and phasing out synthetic materials derived from fossil fuels. The report calls for an end to the “top-down, colonial dynamics that have plagued the fashion industry for decades”, urging major brands to invest at least 2% of their annual revenue in a fair transition to renewable energy sources.
For the fashion industry, this means rethinking every part of the supply chain, from the raw materials used to the way products are manufactured and transported.
To make real progress, the industry needs to focus on several key areas:
Transitioning the Supply Chain from Coal and Fossil Fuels to Renewable Energy: Factories worldwide still rely heavily on coal and other fossil fuels. Shifting to renewable energy sources like wind and solar can significantly cut emissions.
Producing Fewer Clothes: Overproduction is a massive issue. The fast fashion model promotes the idea of disposable clothing, leading to waste and overuse of resources. Brands need to slow down production and focus on quality over quantity.
Minimizing Air Freight: Transporting goods by air significantly increases the carbon footprint. By optimizing logistics and choosing more sustainable transportation methods, brands can reduce their impact.
Phasing Out Synthetic Materials Derived from Fossil Fuels: Many synthetic fabrics are made from petroleum-based products. Moving towards natural and sustainable materials can decrease dependence on fossil fuels.
Accountability: Who’s Holding the Fashion Giants Responsible?
Fashion brands must step up and own their environmental impact. The report shows that only 18% of brands are linking executive pay to decarbonization targets. Even fewer (11%) are clear about how bonuses are tied to these targets. This lack of transparency reveals a troubling disconnect between executive incentives and the pressing need for climate action. If the people at the top aren't financially motivated to go green, how can we expect real change?
Moreover, just 20% of brands are incentivizing their suppliers to reduce carbon footprints with long-term contracts and increased orders. This creates a stark power imbalance where suppliers are often left to shoulder the burden of decarbonization without adequate support. It’s like asking someone to build a house without giving them the tools or materials. Brands need to step up and provide real incentives for suppliers to adopt more sustainable practices.
Transparency is another critical issue. Brands are judged on the detail they provide about their suppliers, including the parent company, facility address, and the type of products/services supplied. Knowing where and how clothes are made is crucial for accountability. Yet, many brands are still vague about their supply chains, making it difficult for consumers and watchdogs to track their true environmental impact.
The bottom line? Fashion brands need to make sure their actions match their green talk. This means not only setting ambitious decarbonization targets but also ensuring that everyone in the supply chain, from executives to suppliers, is held accountable. Real progress requires real transparency and incentives that drive sustainable change at every level.
Decarbonization: The Path Forward
The fashion industry needs to make serious strides in cutting greenhouse gas emissions. While 47% of brands disclose emissions reduction targets verified by the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi), only 56 brands report actual reductions, and 42 brands report increases in Scope 3 emissions. These emissions, which represent about 96% of the total, cover everything from raw material extraction to product disposal. Addressing Scope 3 emissions is crucial, but progress has been painfully slow.
Even more concerning, 86% of brands don’t have a clear plan to phase out coal, the most carbon-intensive fossil fuel. Coal continues to power many production facilities, pouring massive amounts of CO2 into the atmosphere. Additionally, the majority of brands aren’t setting renewable energy targets for their supply chains, with 94% failing to disclose these goals. Without a commitment to renewable energy, the industry can't hope to make meaningful progress.
The industry's overproduction problem exacerbates the issue. Global consumption is projected to increase by 63% by 2030, and clothing sales could potentially triple by 2050. This rampant overproduction not only leads to more waste but also drives up emissions significantly.
Energy Procurement: Challenges and Opportunities
When it comes to energy procurement, the fashion industry has a lot of work to do. Only 11% of brands disclose the energy sources used in their supply chains. This lack of transparency raises serious concerns that even 'sustainable' clothes might still be produced using fossil fuels.
Brands are encouraged to enter into Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs) to directly procure renewable energy and support new projects. PPAs are a great way to ensure that the energy used is clean and actually comes from renewable sources. However, many brands rely on Renewable Energy Credits (RECs), which often fail to make a real impact. There’s frequently no physical link between where the RECs are generated and where the renewable electricity is claimed, making it a bit of a smoke and mirrors game.
To truly cut emissions, brands need both renewable energy and electricity targets. Transitioning to renewable electricity across the supply chain could cut emissions by up to 27%. Yet, most brands (96%) aren’t breaking down their energy consumption by process, and 95% aren’t breaking it down by country. This lack of detailed reporting makes it tough to track progress and identify areas for improvement.
Financing Decarbonization: Putting Their Money Where Their Mouth Is
When it comes to decarbonization, financial investment is key. Shockingly, only 6% of brands disclose their investments in renewable energy within their supply chains, and even fewer (4%) reveal the scale of support provided. This lack of transparency makes it hard to see who’s actually stepping up. The report urges major fashion brands to invest at least 2% of their annual revenue in transitioning away from fossil fuels. It's not just about making promises; it's about backing them up with real dollars.
Even more concerning is that a mere 3% of brands disclose efforts to financially compensate workers affected by climate hazards. These workers often bear the brunt of climate impacts, and without financial support, they’re left vulnerable. Brands that profit the most from the industry have the biggest responsibility to finance this transition, but many are falling short. It’s time for these fashion giants to put their money where their mouth is and support a fair and sustainable future for all.
Renewable Energy Advocacy: Walking the Talk
When it comes to advocating for renewable energy, fashion brands need to step up their game. Only 13% of brands have shown they’re serious about pushing for renewable energy, and even fewer (2%) disclose the outcomes of these efforts. This lack of transparency makes it hard to gauge who’s genuinely committed and who’s just greenwashing.
Brands have significant power to influence policy and drive change. They need to work together to overcome regulatory hurdles and infrastructure issues that block renewable energy adoption. This means using their collective voice to advocate for better policies, more funding, and improved infrastructure to support the shift to renewable energy.
Rights-Respecting Technologies: Tech for Good
Technology can be a powerful ally in making sure workers' rights are respected. Tools like blockchain for traceability, digital platforms for monitoring working conditions, and real-time reporting tools can enhance transparency and accountability throughout the supply chain. But it’s not just about deploying tech – ethical considerations like data privacy and informed consent are crucial. Workers need to know how their data will be used and must give their consent. Without these safeguards, the use of technology could end up doing more harm than good.
Mobile apps can play a big role here. They can inform workers about their rights, provide health and safety guidelines, and offer channels for reporting issues anonymously and securely. This empowers workers to assert their rights without fear of retaliation. Similarly, wearable devices that monitor working conditions, such as temperature and air quality, can help ensure a safer working environment for garment workers. These technologies can make a real difference, but only if implemented thoughtfully and ethically.
Conclusion: The Time to Act Is Now
The fashion industry stands at a pivotal moment. The "What Fuels Fashion? 2024 Edition" report from Fashion Revolution makes it clear: it’s time for major brands to step up their game. We need more transparency, real accountability, and serious investment in renewable energy to make a sustainable future a reality. By addressing these critical issues head-on, the fashion world can not only slash its massive carbon footprint but also ensure a fair transition for everyone involved.
Link to "What Fuels Fashion? 2024 Edition" report from Fashion Revolution