London’s Forward Momentum: SS25 Reinvents the City’s Fashion DNA
London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025 brought a sense of transformation to the capital’s runway, where heritage clashed with contemporary, and timeless elegance intersected with bold experimentalism. Designers fused technical innovation with an unrestrained creative spirit, offering collections that were equally reflective and forward-thinking. From the delicate, sensual constructions of Nensi Dojaka to the bold architectural pieces of JW Anderson, this season marked London as a battleground for reinvention, reclaiming its place as a global epicenter of fashion with fearless originality. Each collection presented not only a sartorial vision but a conversation—whether political, cultural, or emotional—that pushed the boundaries of what fashion can represent. Let’s dive into the key moments that defined SS25.
Nensi Dojaka: A Delicate Rebirth
The evening of Nensi Dojaka’s summer 2025 show marked a triumphant return for the designer, who has become the face of ‘naked dressing’ and pandemic-era sartorial defiance. After a brief hiatus, Dojaka came back to London Fashion Week with a powerful triple announcement: a new Calvin Klein collaboration, a fresh e-shop launch, and, of course, a collection that reasserted her reign over lingerie-inspired fashion. Her SS25 show at the grand St Pancras Renaissance Hotel was more than a comeback; it was a statement of her evolving artistry and business acumen.
Her designs retained their signature architectural precision with stretch tulle, intricate strapping, and micro-draping, but the collection was not without surprises. There was a notable introduction of body-clinging knitwear dresses and a fierce molded leather bustier—a tough contrast to her usual soft, sensual forms. The interplay of organic, floral motifs with sharp, geometric lines provided a striking duality that mirrored her balance between technical mastery and creative fluidity. Her collaboration with Calvin Klein added a commercial yet elegant touch, reinforcing her ability to shift seamlessly between high fashion and everyday wear.
Dojaka’s return felt less like a reentry and more like a transformation. Freed from the seasonal pressure of constant shows, she delivered a collection that was at once deeply personal and broadly appealing, a bold affirmation of her place at the heart of London’s most innovative fashion voices.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
JW Anderson: Minimalism with a Message
Jonathan Anderson is a master of distilling complexity into simplicity, and his Spring/Summer 2025 collection at London Fashion Week was a testament to this talent. On the surface, it appeared that Anderson embraced a stark minimalism, with silhouettes that were pared down to their core—tiny sweaters, bomber jackets, and silk dresses that fluttered with an almost effortless ease. But beneath this reductionist approach lay a profound reflection on the state of fashion today. Anderson’s vision was not just about style; it was a response to the industry’s overconsumption, urging a recalibration of priorities.
“The world is transitioning,” Anderson said in his post-show debrief, calling for fashion to refocus. His collection responded to this call with a mix of craftsmanship and conceptual playfulness. From cashmere knit to leather, silk, and sequins, Anderson balanced whimsy with structure. The leather tutu dresses, minimalist slip gowns, and oversized sweater dresses hinted at his ability to reimagine the familiar in fresh, surprising ways.
A recurring motif in the collection was a text from British art critic Clive Bell, which explored the intersection of art and design. This intellectual layer lent the collection a quiet profundity, asking viewers to consider not just what they were seeing, but what it represented about the future of fashion. JW Anderson’s SS25 show was a cerebral, stylish meditation on where the industry is headed, and it was clear that Anderson is ready to lead the charge into a more thoughtful, introspective era.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Roksanda: A Poetic Dialogue Between Nature and Industry
Roksanda Ilincic’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was more than just a showcase of fashion—it was a commentary on the delicate balance between nature and industrialization. Drawing inspiration from environmental artist Agnes Denes, known for her symbolic “Wheatfield—A Confrontation” in 1980s Manhattan, Ilincic’s collection explored the tension between natural beauty and corporate dominance. The wheat sprig placed on each guest’s seat set the tone for a collection that celebrated nature’s resilience against the harshness of urban life.
The Space House, a Brutalist relic of 1960s architecture, was the perfect backdrop for Ilincic’s exploration of fluidity and structure. The collection’s tailoring—sharp jackets, sheer cutouts, and clean lines—contrasted with voluminous, off-the-shoulder dresses that moved with ethereal grace. The melding of rigid forms with free-flowing silhouettes created a dynamic tension, reflecting the juxtaposition of natural beauty against the industrial backdrop of the city.
Colors rooted in nature—melon, mint, and aubergine—added vibrancy to the collection, while the use of wheat-inspired fringe and abstract countryside imagery gave the pieces a personal, painterly touch. With a romantic yet modern approach, Ilincic's designs embodied optimism and freedom, offering a poetic reflection on the intersection of humanity and the environment. It was a collection that spoke not just to the eye, but to the heart.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Simone Rocha: A Dance of Delicacy and Defiance
Simone Rocha’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, set against the historic Old Bailey courthouse, was an exploration of contrasts—between the delicate and the daring, the performative and the private. Drawing inspiration from the world of dance, particularly the works of Pina Bausch and Michael Clark, Rocha’s collection blended ballerina elegance with a rebellious, almost subversive edge. Florals, in the form of carnations, bloomed throughout the collection, from sprouting embellishments on garments to bouquet handbags, creating a romantic yet unsettling atmosphere.
Rocha’s signature blend of femininity and toughness was evident in the collection’s layered tulle dresses, cutout coats, and oversized knits, which hinted at the tension between control and chaos. The dance motifs were further emphasized through ballet-inspired wrap cardigans and tutus, reimagined with a formal, almost armor-like quality. The juxtaposition of softness and structure created a sense of intrigue and narrative depth, inviting viewers to interpret the collection through their own lens.
Menswear also made a strong statement, with exaggerated silhouettes, technical fabrics, and floral embellishments that blurred the lines between masculinity and femininity. Rocha’s playful collaboration with Crocs added a whimsical, unexpected twist, proving that even in a collection full of nuance and meaning, there’s always room for a bit of irreverence. In a show filled with layers of meaning, Simone Rocha once again captivated with her ability to craft a narrative that is as rich in emotion as it is in design.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Burberry: A New Chapter of Lightness and Legacy
Daniel Lee's Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Burberry marked a pivotal moment for the brand as it steered towards a more commercially viable, yet creatively rich, direction. Set against the Brutalist backdrop of London’s National Theatre, this collection was a celebration of the brand’s heritage, while embracing modernity with a sense of lightness and optimism. With new CEO Joshua Schulman at the helm, there was a noticeable shift toward wearability without sacrificing the dream-like qualities that Burberry is known for.
The iconic Burberry trench was reimagined in various forms—cropped, feathered, and turned into breezy dresses, capes, and tops. These familiar silhouettes were softened with fabrics like washed silk poplin and linen, infusing the collection with a lightness that felt refreshing and effortless. Burberry’s signature check was also given a subtle update, presented in toned-down hues that complemented the soft pastel palette of lilacs, oranges, and blues.
Lee's collaboration with British artist Gary Hume was woven throughout the collection, with the show's color-blocked set mirroring Hume's paintings. The tactile nature of the fabrics, from lightweight parkas to metallic paillettes on fringed dresses, captured the essence of joy and familiarity that Lee sought to bring forward. The collection felt like a love letter to the heritage of Burberry while pushing it forward into a new era—one grounded in both tradition and innovation.
