New York Fashion Week SS25: The Powerhouses, Breakouts, and Iconic Comebacks
New York Fashion Week never fails to surprise, but this season, it felt like the city had more to prove. With whispers of an evolving industry and heightened expectations, designers rose to the occasion with collections that felt urgent, unapologetic, and fiercely creative. From heritage brands reimagining American classics to the daring vision of fashion’s emerging stars, this season was a thrilling dance between the old and the new.
As the city’s skyline set the backdrop, there was a sense that New York’s fashion scene was reclaiming its crown. The runway became a stage for the bold and the brave, where designers didn't just show collections—they made statements. Playful, provocative, and polished, Spring/Summer 2025 was a reminder that New York remains the ultimate stage for those unafraid to rewrite the rules.
Breakout Star: Grace Ling
Emerging designer Grace Ling truly cemented her status as fashion's latest obsession at New York Fashion Week. At just 27, the Chinese-born, New York-based creative is already a favorite among Hollywood’s elite, counting Jennifer Lopez, Kim Kardashian, and Anya Taylor-Joy as loyal clients. Her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled Neverland, showcased a futuristic, boundary-pushing vision that balanced surrealism with sensuality—leaving the audience mesmerized by her technical prowess and otherworldly elegance.
Ling, a finalist for this year’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, drew on her signature elements—3D printing and architectural silhouettes—to craft a collection that felt both ethereal and primal. The opening look, a stunning display of one of her iconic 3D-printed aluminum breastplates, set the tone for what was to follow: clothing that merges art and fashion with unapologetic boldness. As the model walked, the subtle metallic clicks of the breastplate echoed through the room, creating a sensory experience that felt primal yet utterly modern.
The influence of primitive times was clear throughout the collection, with fractured metallic details and torn, scorched edges evoking a sense of beautiful decay. Yet, there was a deliberate juxtaposition at play: bold, futuristic designs met natural elements, with soft flowing fabrics in rust and leaf green creating an interplay between nature and technology. It was a thoughtful exploration of how far humans have come—and how deeply connected we remain to our origins.
Grace Ling’s most striking pieces—including a chrome bird's nest minidress, where metal branches encased the body like a futuristic sculpture—showcased her ability to push boundaries, turning fashion into wearable art. And yet, amid the avant-garde spectacle, there was playfulness. Her “Butt Bag” made a cheeky return, reminding us that Ling's vision of modern femininity includes a healthy dose of humor alongside the glamour.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Coach: A Nostalgic Rebirth with a Playful, Youthful Edge
Coach has been off my radar for quite some time, but in the past few seasons, they’ve truly redefined their aesthetic—especially their bags. What was once a brand targeting my mom and grandma has now captured my attention as a millennial, along with my Gen Z siblings. And I love it! This season’s ready-to-wear was fun, playful, and effortlessly cool, blending classic American style with modern streetwear sensibilities. Coach is no longer just for the older crowd; it’s for us.
Stuart Vevers took the Coach Spring/Summer 2025 collection to the next level, mixing youthful exuberance with a sense of nostalgia. Frayed denim and lived-in leather jackets evoked a casual cool, while graffitied backpacks and oversized bags shaped like hearts and teddy bears brought a dose of quirky fun. Vevers clearly knows how to mix high fashion with elements of whimsy and practicality, making Coach’s accessories must-haves. His ability to weave in reworked classics, like cropped leather jackets and slouched khakis, shows that the brand’s heritage isn’t being ignored—it’s being reinvented.
The collection was full of contrasts. It played with proportions in unexpected ways—oversized, slouchy pants paired with shrunken biker jackets and satin slip dresses. The mix of distressed fabrics, like raw-edged denim and cotton, felt rebellious, while simultaneously tapping into the nostalgia of preppy Americana with varsity jackets and “I ♥ NY” tees. Every look felt carefully designed to be both effortless and intentional, from the slouchy pants to the tailored blazers.
What really resonated was the collection's embrace of sustainability, a key value for millennials and Gen Z. Vevers cleverly used upcycled materials and weathered fabrics to give familiar pieces new life, proving that sustainability doesn’t mean sacrificing style. His focus on sustainability extended to Coach’s signature leather goods, where vegetable-dyed leathers were transformed into structured handbags and playful clutch purses shaped like oversized hearts and lips.
This season was all about contrast and personality, with each look having a distinct sense of individuality, from retro satin mini dresses to functional, street-ready sneakers adorned with whimsical charms. Coach’s collection feels like an ode to the new generation—bringing authenticity, joy, and playfulness into the modern fashion landscape.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Proenza Schouler: A Fresh Start with Timeless Elegance
Proenza Schouler kicked off New York Fashion Week two days ahead of schedule, and it wasn’t just the timing that set them apart this season. In a loft bathed in golden September light, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez presented a collection that embraced simplicity and raw emotion, while subtly redefining their iconic codes. The duo, who’ve always been masters at balancing modernity with timeless sophistication, took a step back, stripping their designs down to their core essence—and the results were nothing short of breathtaking.
“We felt like we stripped everything down to the point where there wasn’t much more to take away,” McCollough explained before the show. But it wasn’t minimalism for minimalism’s sake. The new Proenza Schouler woman isn’t just refined; she’s complex, emotional, and always in motion. You could feel it in the way square-cut tops and dresses, inspired by sails, draped fluidly across the body—creating fleeting glimpses of skin as the models walked. It was all about movement, about flashes of something deeper beneath the surface.
In a season where the industry seems obsessed with what’s next, Proenza Schouler took a different route: they revisited their past, but with a fresh perspective. Classic elements like pleats and fringe were ever-present, but reimagined in ways that felt thoroughly modern. Long Grecian-inspired jersey dresses in ivory, lilac, and black had a graceful, timeless quality, while slashed leather skirts fringed with organza had an undeniable edge—punk in spirit, but elegant in execution.
But perhaps what made the collection sing was its emotional resonance. There was something about these clothes—whether it was a striped top layered over sailor pants, or the hypnotic flow of the marinière knit dresses—that elicited a response. These weren’t just garments to admire; they were pieces that demanded to be worn, to be lived in. As Hernandez noted, “No one needs another black suit. What’s luring people is that emotional quality—when you look at something and just think, ‘I need it.’”
Proenza Schouler’s Spring/Summer 2025 offering is a study in contrasts. It’s light and airy yet grounded in craftsmanship. It’s polished but raw, restrained but emotional. This is a collection for the woman who doesn’t want to be boxed into one definition of luxury—she wants it all, and she’s ready to embrace every facet of herself. From the billowing fringe to the flashes of skin, this collection was both a return to form and a bold leap forward.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Ralph Lauren: The Quintessential American Dream
Ralph Lauren is synonymous with timeless American style, and his Spring/Summer 2025 show was a masterclass in why. Set against the idyllic backdrop of a 19-acre horse farm in Bridgehampton, the collection felt like a love letter to classic Americana, reimagined for the modern age. With an audience of Hollywood stars and political figures—including First Lady Dr. Jill Biden—Lauren transported his guests into a world of sun-kissed afternoons and coastal sophistication.
The collection was an effortless blend of the rustic and the refined, offering everything from crochet-trimmed flag sweaters paired with white shorts to slinky, midnight-blue slip dresses perfect for a black-tie affair. Western-inspired fringe and suede made an appearance, nodding to the pastoral setting, while nautical stripes and preppy tailoring reminded us that Lauren’s vision of American luxury is never one-dimensional.
As always, Lauren’s eye for detail was impeccable, right down to the styling of basket bags filled with Italian newspapers. With a mix of heritage, romance, and a touch of the unexpected, Ralph Lauren once again proved why he remains at the pinnacle of American fashion.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Willy Chavarría: Power to the People
Willy Chavarría’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was nothing short of a powerful statement. Set against the backdrop of Wall Street, Chavarría’s show redefined American fashion, focusing not on corporate culture, but on the everyday people who keep the country running. Titled América (with an accent on the ‘e’), the collection celebrated the strength and resilience of the working class, all while subverting the traditional symbols of American pride.
With balloon-sleeved jackets, baggy cargo skirts, and reimagined workwear in mustard tones and crisp whites, the collection paid homage to the uniforms of hotel workers, construction crews, and farm laborers. Wide-brim straw hats and bandanas flanked by the American flag created a striking visual commentary on labor movements and the immigrant experience, evoking a sense of pride and defiance.
The show ended with a surprise collaboration with Adidas, where Chavarría reimagined the iconic 1978 Jabbar sneaker into a pointed toe style, fusing streetwear with a regal edge. His final message? América is for everyone—the people who build it, shape it, and wear it.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Alaïa: A Sculptural Ode at the Guggenheim
In an unprecedented move, Alaïa made history by presenting its Spring/Summer 2025 collection at New York’s Guggenheim Museum—a fitting venue for a house that blends fashion and art with breathtaking precision. Under the creative vision of Pieter Mulier, the collection paid tribute to Alaïa’s signature sculptural techniques while embracing a powerful dialogue with American fashion influences. Against the backdrop of Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic spiral design, the models became living works of art, gracefully descending the museum’s famous walkway in what felt like a seamless fusion of fashion and architecture.
Mulier masterfully balanced Alaïa’s Parisian craftsmanship with nods to American design legends like Charles James and Halston. Brushed shearling chubbies in soft pastels, sculptural micro-pleated dresses, and voluminous track suits in delicate taffeta showcased the brand’s ability to push the boundaries of traditional fashion while maintaining a sense of timelessness. The interplay between structure and fluidity, exemplified by the juxtaposition of billowing silhouettes and form-hugging bodices, reflected the collection’s ethos of modernity grounded in the rich history of the house.
From tactile shearling coats to meticulously engineered pleats that felt more like wearable art, Mulier’s latest offering was a testament to Alaïa’s enduring legacy and his own innovative prowess. The show at the Guggenheim was not only a celebration of fashion but also a reminder that Alaïa continues to exist at the crossroads of artistry and technical mastery—ensuring its place as a beacon of elegance and innovation.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Khaite: A Modern Ode to 90s New York
Khaite’s Spring/Summer 2025 show transported us straight back to the gritty glamour of 1990s New York, where cool minimalism met effortless edge. Under the deft hand of designer Catherine Holstein, the collection was a celebration of contrasts—sleek tailoring and tough leather paired with airy organza and soft knits. This season, Khaite continued to push its signature understated elegance, but with a warmer, more romantic twist. The designer’s personal evolution seemed to be reflected in the collection, as she embraced softer textures and earthier tones.
The beauty look for the show mirrored the aesthetic perfectly, with slicked-back hair and barely-there makeup adding to the raw, tough-luxe vibe. Yet there was something undeniably sensual in the way Khaite’s silhouettes draped and clung to the body, whether through sheer organza trousers or sculpted knit tops. Leather blouson jackets and voluminous poncho dresses added an air of playful rebellion to the polished ensembles, showing that Holstein is unafraid to experiment with new shapes and textures.
Khaite’s commitment to comfort and functionality remains strong, but this season felt more daring, more experimental. From hand-knit ribbon peplum tops to the red-hot glossy shoes that anchored many looks, Holstein made it clear that her vision for Khaite is both evolving and timeless. In a city where fashion is as much about attitude as aesthetics, Khaite perfectly captured the essence of New York’s cool, confident women.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Off-White: A Global Traveler’s Dream
Off-White’s first-ever stateside runway show for Spring/Summer 2025 was nothing short of a homecoming for the brand, even as it embraced its global roots. Set against the iconic backdrop of Brooklyn Bridge Park, creative director Ib Kamara honored the late Virgil Abloh’s legacy by weaving together themes of travel, culture, and youthful confidence. The collection, fittingly titled Duty Free, was an ode to the modern global traveler—young, sexy, and effortlessly stylish.
The women’s pieces were drenched in athletic wear influences, with plunging v-neck leotards and split-hem leggings making a striking statement. Kamara played with proportions, layering track jackets and skirts, creating a look that felt low-key yet deeply considered. For the men, Kamara added his signature twist to classic tailoring, with zippered panels on vests and jackets that echoed the fluidity and ease of a true jet-setter’s wardrobe.
The show felt like a celebration of the brand’s ability to transcend borders, both geographically and stylistically. With front-row stars like Mary J. Blige, Zayn Malik, and tennis sensation Francis Tiafoe cheering on the collection, Kamara proved that Off-White is more than just a brand—it’s a movement, one that speaks to a generation unafraid to explore, experiment, and embrace their global identity.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Toteme’s Minimalist Mastery: Scandinavian Elegance Meets New York Edge
Toteme’s New York debut was a powerful statement that felt both intimate and monumental. Swedish founders Elin Kling and Karl Lindman took their cult-favorite minimalist brand from the quiet streets of Stockholm to the bustling energy of NYC, marking a significant homecoming since they lived in the city when they started the brand in 2014. The show reflected a balance between the signature Scandinavian restraint and the sophisticated, fast-paced New Yorker lifestyle.
The collection embodied what Toteme has always stood for—timeless, minimal designs rooted in a deeply personal aesthetic. The color palette stayed loyal to its black-and-white origins, which has become synonymous with Kling’s own wardrobe. The magic came from the play of texture—suede against cotton, structured satin coats next to soft knits—all styled in ways that felt fresh, yet familiar to Toteme’s loyalists. This season also featured twisted tulle skirts, hand-knitted ribbon tops, and even subtle floral embroidery, adding a touch of romance to the brand’s usually strict silhouette.
What makes Toteme so appealing is its refusal to conform to trends, focusing instead on longevity and versatility. From draped goddess dresses to tailored separates, the collection was a masterclass in understated luxury. Every piece looked effortlessly chic, with a wearability that speaks to the brand's core philosophy. Toteme's entry into the NYC fashion scene confirmed what fans of the label already know—this is a brand that defines modern minimalism for women who want to feel empowered by simplicity.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Michael Kors: Jet-Set Glamour Meets Rustic Opulence
Michael Kors transported his audience to the Italian coast with a collection that evoked the romance of The Talented Mr. Ripley—both the sun-soaked allure and the darker, noirish edge of the famous story. Drawing inspiration from his own travels to Ischia and Procida, Kors seamlessly blended the ease of beachside dressing with the polish of city sophistication.
Kors' Spring/Summer 2025 lineup featured high-slit maillots paired with sleek skirts and raffia-trimmed lace dresses, bringing an effortless yet elevated vibe to the runway. His signature polish remained intact, even as he embraced more rustic, hand-crafted elements. From cocktail-ready sequin and lace dresses with portrait necklines to casual raffia-adorned pieces, Kors demonstrated his ability to make laid-back glamour feel luxuriously opulent.
In true Michael Kors fashion, his take on summer dressing came with the kind of sophistication that speaks to both jet-setters and city dwellers alike.
Images courtesy of Vogue Runway
Tommy Hilfiger: A Nostalgic Comeback with a Modern Twist
Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was a masterclass in reinvention, proving that the brand’s all-American charm has evolved into something dynamic and fresh. For those of us who grew up with the iconic “Tommy Girl” aesthetic, this show was like a walk down memory lane, but with a modern, energetic twist. Hilfiger captured that same youthful essence while redefining what preppy means for today’s fashion-forward crowd, making it relevant for both old fans and a new generation discovering the brand’s legacy for the first time.
This season, Hilfiger presented a collection that stayed true to its preppy DNA—navy captain’s blazers, peacoats, cricket sweaters, and tennis v-necks—but with a refreshingly relaxed vibe. The precision tailoring that once defined the brand was replaced with looser cuts, crinkled fabrics, and a relaxed yet elevated aesthetic. Lightweight denim, single-pleat trousers, and swishy loose-knit sweaters added texture and movement to the collection, giving it an approachable, lived-in feel. Swapping the traditional stiff button-downs for slouchy silhouettes, Hilfiger injected a dose of effortless cool into the classic wardrobe staples.
One of the standout elements was how he played with contrast—mixing prim poplin dresses and pleated khakis with playful, unexpected twists like oversized bags in vibrant colors, heart-shaped clutches, and accessories that echoed the cheeky spirit of youth. There was an undeniable sense of fun in the details, like frayed hems on tailored pieces and graffiti-scrawled sneakers that added a rebellious street edge to the otherwise polished looks.
But what truly set this collection apart was its ability to fuse heritage with contemporary street style. The oversized outerwear, like roomy leather jackets and reworked trench coats, felt fresh while nodding to Hilfiger’s classic Americana roots. Bold, graphic prints and sporty influences added a layer of versatility to the collection, making it accessible to both the runway and everyday wear. The use of nostalgic yet reimagined pieces—updated cricket sweaters, varsity jackets, and sporty knits—spoke to a wider generational audience, blurring the lines between tradition and modernity.
And then there was the show itself—a celebration of New York City culture, closing with a performance by Wu-Tang Clan on the iconic Staten Island Ferry. It was a reminder that Tommy Hilfiger is as much a part of the city’s cultural fabric as the landmarks it chose for the runway, from Grand Central Station to the Manhattan skyline. The finale embodied the rebellious yet classic spirit that Hilfiger has always stood for, proving that the brand’s comeback is not just about nostalgia but about redefining what preppy, all-American fashion looks like in 2025.
With this show, Tommy Hilfiger confidently claimed his place at the intersection of heritage and innovation, offering a collection that was equal parts classic and cool, with a hefty dose of New York swagger.
